It’s also important to understand your fabric before you even make that first stitch. Some of your early sewing problems are likely not related to the way you are sewing, but rather are due to the fabric not behaving as you expected. Cotton is stable, light weight linen can slide around, and knit will curl at the edges. By learning how your fabric is acting, you can avoid seams that are not straight, distorted silhouettes, or an uneven garment. Before you start sewing, take a few minutes to work with your fabric, fold it, crease it, and see how it reacts to being pressed by your fingers.
I often start by cutting a small square from my fabric, and laying it on the table. I will gently tug on the fabric in different directions to see how it responds. Some fabric has a bit of give on the bias, while others don’t. This can explain why a garment piece will distort when you cut it out, or sew it, without regard to the grain of the fabric. I will then fold the fabric on grain and press the fold down with my finger. If the crease stays sharp, I know that the fabric holds its shape well. If the crease quickly relaxes, I know that the fabric may need more pinning or careful handling as I sew.
One of the biggest mistakes I see beginning sewists make is not paying attention to the grain of the fabric when they are cutting their fabric. Grain refers to the direction of the threads woven in your fabric. If you cut across grain, your garment pieces may distort after you sew them together. You may find that a pouch or bag starts to lean to one side, even though your seams are straight. To correct this, you will simply need to pull a single loose thread from the edge of your fabric to find the grain. The resulting line that the thread makes in your fabric will give you the guide that you need to cut straight.
Taking a few minutes each day to practice with your fabric can make a huge difference. Spend 15 minutes each day working with a new piece of fabric. In the first few minutes, stretch the fabric a little to see how it reacts. Then cut a rectangle from your fabric, making sure to align your cut edges with the grain of the fabric. Finally, sew a seam in your fabric to see how the fabric reacts to the machine. By doing this, you will gain a better understanding of the texture, drape, and stability of your fabric without the pressure of a having to complete a garment.
As you work with fabric, you will begin to recognize the differences between fabrics even before you cut them. You will recognize the subtle variations in weight, texture, and drape of your fabric. This will help you better prepare your fabric before you sew, and you will be less likely to have surprises as you sew. By understanding your fabric, you will be able to sew more smoothly on your machine, and your final garment will be more even. Instead of fighting your fabric, your hands will begin to work with your fabric, and you will start to see a huge change in your ability to sew.